The dirty side of cleansing
In the past it was believed that our skin needed to be left feeling squeaky clean after cleansing. That feeling of tightness and no oil was seen as a positive and a good, effective clean. But this feeling is your skin crying out for moisture and potentially a compromised barrier function.
We believe that cleansing is the most important step in any skincare regime. If you get it wrong, your skin will ultimately be playing catchup.
What happens if you get cleansing 'wrong'?
1. You become oilier.
Soaps and foaming cleansers require a type of surfactant for that suds-up effect.
These surfactants are also found in dishwashing liquid. Squirting dishwashing liquid onto an oily plate will cut through grease and grime, which is fine as it's a dinner plate (not your face).
Cleansing our face the same way strips the skin's preserving oils. Removing these oils triggers your skin to produce more oil to compensate for the loss.
2. Your skin will become dehydrated and congested.
Stripping the skin's natural oils will result in water evaporating from the skin. Water is needed for a variety of skin functions, such as the skin’s natural exfoliating process.
The outer layer of the skin is comprised of flattened cells that create a barrier against physical trauma. As time goes on, new cells bump their way up to the surface, allowing for natural shedding of these excess skin cells. These cells are held together by a type of intercellular cement or bonding.
When the skin has the right amount of water, an enzyme is activated to help dissolve the bonding to allow the skin cell to be shed, keeping the skin refined and smooth.
Lack of water in the skin can cause an increased accumulation of dead cells on the skin’s surface. These cells fall into the pores, blocking the natural oil flow, resulting in blockages and congestion.
3. You may start experiencing breakouts.
The skin's acid mantle is a layer of oil and water, and as the name suggests, it is more acidic. It's role is to protect the skin against irritation and from bacteria entering the skin.
Many cleansers, especially foaming cleansers are more alkaline in nature, meaning they have a higher pH and will break the skin’s protective acid mantle. This can leave the skin vulnerable to bacteria which can infect the skin and cause inflamed breakouts.